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Note: The author does not stock, sell, or distribute lock tools; if you're not a student in my seminar, please don't ask -- I can't help you. Longer handles are as a rule better in torque tools; the farther from the plug the torque can be applied, the easier it is to detect and control fine movement. In the locked state the plug is prevented from rotating by a set of movable pin stacks, typically under spring pressure, that protrude from holes in the top of the opening in the shell into corresponding holes drilled into the top of the plug. The rest is just technique -- locating and recognizing the state of each pin stack, manipulating the pins, applying torque to the plug. The basic skills of pin tumbler lock picking include selecting the proper tools, manipulating pins through the keyway, applying torque, and recognizing the state of each pin. Good tools are important, to be sure, but once a few basic tools are available the student of lock picking is usually better off investing in new locks on which to practice rather than in new picking tools. In general, the torque tool should be as thick as possible while still fitting in the keyway, and of a width sufficient to provide good control but without interfering with the picking tool's access to the pins.

The pick must be strong enough to resist bending or breaking while lifting pins, yet the shaft must be small and thin enough to maneuver freely around the keyway without disturbing other pins. As you work with locks more populated with pins, it becomes increasingly critical to avoid accidently disturbing the pins adjacent to the one you're working on. However, because they jam when false set, locks with serrated pins tend to impression very well (impressioning is a decoding technique that produces a working key based on marks left on a progressively cut key blank). However, your efforts un-pinning and re-pinning locks will be time well spent -- you will progress much faster than you would if you tried to start out picking fully pinned cylinders. Lifting pins is one of the basic actions of lock picking, and it's worth taking the time now to become good at it. A few basic tools are sufficient to pick the majority of commonly used locks.

Few burglars can afford to risk exposure during the time required to pick even relatively easy locks, and unexplained possession of lock picking tools is often considered prima facia evidence of criminal intent. Of course, in this short space I’m showing you things that might normally go on for a considerably longer time. Take your time with this. It will take a bit of practice to find just the right technique. You should be able to confidently find each pin and push it all the way up, without jamming the pick against anything or moving other pins. Note that while many locks pick predominantly back to front or front to back, there are exceptions, and you may find that the binding pin stack "jumps around" from the back to the front to the middle and so on. For most of the picking methods discussed here, in which tumblers are manipulated one by one, a "hook"-style pick is generally used.

Pin tumbler lock picking consists of raising the cuts on each pin stack to the shear line, one by one, until the plug turns freely. The top pin of that pin stack will be trapped above the shear line, the bottom pin will fall freely, and now a new pin stack (the next most misaligned one) prevents further rotation. Note the border between the plug and shell, which forms the shear line, and the cuts in each pin stack resting within the plug. Around the circumference of the plug is a shell, which is fixed to the door or container. Here the plug has been turned slightly toward the camera, so that the tops of the pins in the plug are visible. I’m not here to be a prophet of doom. The two shear lines are keyed independently by a "double height" pin stack, with one set of cuts keyed to each. The shape of the tip is the most obvious difference between picking tools, with hooks, half-diamond, ball, double ball, wave, sawtooth and other styles available.

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